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We 1st crossed paths a few years ago when I was running an ad on craigslist. There is a reason one would name one Big Rik. BR pulls into my parking lot at work and I meet him and his buddy. Nice guys. They just surfed Santa Cruz or Waddell or Pacifica or wherever???? I forget….. but I didn’t forget where he told me he lived…………..Sacramento. Just a normal day run for him to be here or there or anywhere up and down the coast from SC to Mendo.

Gotta tell you, I respect anyone who gets up at 4:00am and drives from Sacramento to the coast. Riks life with his family is in Sacto but his passion is the beach.

He buys my wetsuit (or was it a board?) and from there I start getting these e mails of his conquests. He tells me of scoring SC then Pacifica, then OB another time up the coast at Mendo. How many miles does he drive a year????? Gas prices must have killed him.

So, I’ve only met him once and might not even recognize him again if I ran into him, but he recognized me at the Dr’s office. Fate brought us together at the Dr’s office. The Dr’s office? Let’s just say Rik knows this fickle out of the way place that is one hell of a drive(even for me, yet alone from Sacto) to get to but a place worth the drive when it goes off. Quite frankly, you could go there for 20 years and not hit a day like this.

Rik, these are for you, the day we saw the real Doctor.

Keep the e’s coming, I admire your STOKE!

mag –>

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Dude,

Check it out. When your age gets around the speed limit, you know your most dreaded enemy is the evil force of get injured. You don’t even have to be the speed limit.

30’s , you get injured from pushing the limits, 40’s you get injured pushing your abilities and don’t seem to bounce back like you use to. Over 50 and you are doomed by the slightest injury. Bend over the wrong way and twang, back goes out, pull too hard putting on boots and twang, cramp in calf, arms over head to grab wetsuit and twang, spasms. Ok, those are the easy ones.

Surfers ear from years of cold water and wind chill factor = out for months. Rotator cuff = Ibuprofen, out for months. Ruptured L 4/5 = pain, drugs, laying around, out for months or worse yet, surgery = morphine. Bicycle crash + surgery= pins in hip, out for 6 months and drugs. Bulging disc in neck = Ibuprofen, vicodin, percocet = neck brace, out for months. Amazing any of us can make it through a season and there indeed lays the challenge.

Next time you see some AARP waist leash wearing, motrin chewing, excessive board lenghting, gray hairing, balding dude paddle out in double overhead Ocean Beach, admire the stoke and hope you make it as long as they did.

Obey your elders and honor adult swim hour.

Don’t laugh, these guys have made it longer out there than most and you ever will. You still have a lot of catching up to do.

Ok, that’s it, don’t get me started on board length and how 98% of guys over 40 are in denial riding equipment way to short thinking they are still kids.

Get over it, STFU (shut the f$^#^ Up) and surf.

MAG

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Two Guys Riding Head Highs
Wadell out Wadell in
Always grey Always looking
Always seeing The Dorsal Fin

Two Guys Surfing Head Highs
Settin the pace
Today we are puttin on a clinic
Dominating the space

Two hrs go, only cars stopping by
Were rippin the place
Soon 3 sheep take our space
Three guys surfin head highs

Cruzin south past creeks and bluffs
Fields of berry organic and ripe
19 bucks for a morning picked crate of Red
I’ll be chowin till I go to bed.

Lookin for Coffey got a Fish on the line
A little Oversize but it’ll ride just fine
A quick Fish Taco and we are on our way
Gonna check our spot, see if fish wants to play

Two guys won’t be surfin Head Highs
The winds gone west, not lookin the best
Butt I must say, can’t wait to be
SURFIN AWAY ANOTHER PERFECT DAY
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